Minsk - Belarussian ***
Address - Tokyo-to, Minato-ku, Azabudai 1-4-2
Opening hours - Open every day from 11:30 am to 2:00 am and from 17 to 10:30 pm
Telephone - 03-3586-6600
Menu - In Japanese and English
Credit Cards - OK
I was in Russia, and what I remember of the (scarce) food isn't enthusing. It was 1992, the last days of the Soviet Union, and all they had on the Trans Siberian restaurant wagon was Beef Stroganoff, which went down easily enough the first week. Later it got harder.
In any case, because Moscow was more of the same, and because Tokyo's Russian restaurants hadn't impressed me all that much, I went to Minsk with a mix of curiosity and diffidence. Belarus isn't Russia, but I figure they can't be all that different: I recognized several item's in Minsk's menu just because I had been on the Trans Siberian. What I found was an attractive, tidy interior, a colorful menu and three very beautiful, very Slav-looking women, one of whom was the owner.
The menu was mostly new to me, but interesting and enticing.
Ordered a Baltika Beer (the name is in Cyrillic characters) apiece, we opted for some Beef Stroganoff, the unavoidable Borscht (one apiece), Kiev cabbage (cabbage rolls), and other things that didn't leave a lasting memory. To close the meal, a glass of Kwas, a wine-like drink made with stale bread. Damages: about 5 thousand per head.
Ambience and service were good, all food well prepared, and the girls, as I said, a pleasure to the eye, but Belarussian (or Russian) food, while visually attractive, is nothing to write home about: it's definitely a minor cuisine, and at least to me has just a curiosity value. Couple that with an extremely inconvenient location of the restaurant, near the Tokyo Tower and far from everything else, and you see that I almost certainly won't be back.
Please do not misunderstand. I am not saying Minsk is a complete dud, but just that I personally can think of many places much closer to home that serve more interesting stuff.
May 2005
Esperia - Italian
Akebononobashi
Address - Tokyo-to, Minato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 4-11-25.
Opening hours - 12 to 3, 6 to 11 Monday closed.
Telephone - 03-5485-1771
Menu - In Italian and Japanese
Credit Cards - OK
Having read its glowing review in
Tokyo Food Page's, I expected magnificent things from Esperia. In fact, just a first look at the menu, or rather menus, because there's also a long list (in Japanese) of additional dishes available only for the day, makes you realize that this is indeed an excellent Northern Italian restaurant. Others places I have tried have the Esperia's quality, but none has the astonishing variety of foods and drinks. Polenta, raw ham, lamb, bottarga (smoked cod roe), swordfish, gnocchi, 50 kinds of grappa, Italian amari and wines (sorry, no foreign ones) ... The list goes on an on.
I ordered assorted appetizers, linguine with bottarga, grilled lamb and assorted desserts. My beloved one had raw ham and mozzarella, risotto with funghi, grilled swordfish and assorted desserts. Everything was superb and service impeccable. When we ordered two grappas, the owner was so kind to bring at least 15 bottles to our table to let us choose, then suggested that we have two half glasses instead of a whole one, so that we could taste four different varieties. The one problem were the skimpy portions, the smallest I have ever seen, but since we didn't go hungry, it's a minor one.
Damages: 7000 yen apiece. Esperia is clearly not a restaurant where one eats every day, but it's absolutely worth the money. If you want to have a special evening on a special occasion with a special one, this is the place you are looking for.
December 25, 1999
web -
www.geocities.jp/clinica_trattoria_esperia
Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden - French
Reviewed by Claus Regge
Address - Tokyo-to, Minato-ku, Roppongi 4-4-2, Hill Side Palace Roppongi
Opening hours Open 17:30 to 23:00, Closed Sundays and National Holidays
Telephone - 03-3479-1390
Menu - In Japanese and English
Credit Cards - Yes
Hidden away in a back alley of Roppongi near the ex-Defense Agency is one of my long-time favorites, Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden. Founded over 20 years ago by Albert Stamp, an American restaurateur and wine expert, with some financial help from the wine department of Kikkoman, Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden must not be confused with the similarly named chain of cheap wine bars found all over Tokyo.
Many years before Japan's recent wine boom, Al Stamp set out to make this place a cozy gathering spot for wine lovers with mainly French-inspired food and some steaks offered more as an afterthought. After running it himself for over a decade, Al then returned management rights to his financial backers. They appointed Mr. Sekimoto as manager and maitre d' which position he fills to this day.
I gladly admit that I owe Al Stamp and his restaurant a good deal of my wine education. It was quite unusual in those days to find a truly comprehensive selection of wines from all major producing countries gathered in one smallish spot, at decent prices and supported by Al's freely dispensed expertise and advice. The wine list was quite a tome, organized by country and region of origin and, for the most important regions like Bordeaux, by appellation and rank. While one could choose a modest but well selected bottle for around Yen 3000, there was also a great selection of all the premiere grand crus, of good vintages and with enough bottle age, at Yen 30,000 and up. And up. And up...
But please note the past tense in the preceding paragraphs. The decor with its warm wood colors and filament bulb lighting hasn't changed, classical music is still streaming from the speakers at restrained volume levels, and the food has become, if anything, better and more varied over the years. But the wine list, while still well planned, is only a pale shadow of its former self, down to a tenth or less. Champagnes and sparkling wines, although still in stock, are not even listed any longer. Bordeaux has been reduced to a page or so - there used to be dozens. Other areas such as Alsace or Austria have been given short shrift.
That said, I still like to go to Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden from time to time and I recommend it to any wine drinker looking for a decent bottle or two to wash down some more than just decent French-style food or, at later hours, just a plate of cheeses. For a very satisfyling three-course meal, the tab will be around Yen 4000. I don't bother with the wine list any longer, instead consulting with Sekimoto-san about what else he has to offer. He invariably pulls a few bottles out of his sleeve that are not on the list, perhaps because of limited supply, or maybe because he was just too lazy to list them. (Note: there is no beer but a wide selection of after-dinner digestifs.)
Service always has been relaxed, unassuming but courteous. You'll be made to feel welcome even if you're alone, although I consider Mr. Stamp's a perfect choice for a date. Assuming, of course, that the lady knows how to drink and be happy...
Reservations recommended, especially on Fri and Sat
How to get there : From Roppongi crossing, walk toward Aoyama 1-chome and the ex-Defense Agency headquarters on the right side of Gaien-Higashi-dori. Turn right into the third alley. At its end, turn left and immediately right again. Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden is on the left-hand side at the end of that alley. You'll see some wine crates stacked outside and Mr. Stamp's bearded face adorning a yellow sign.
Piccolo Grande - Italian
Reviewed by Saverio Pascazio
Address - 3-7-2 Azabujuban, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Opening hours - 11:30am to 14:00pm and 18:00 to 23:30
Telephone - 03-3457-0665
Menu - In Italian and Japanese
Piccolo Grande is a small restaurant I have been to a couple of times. The staff at the Italian Embassy likes to eat here because it's inexpensive, yet very good and hospitable. The cook comes from Tuscany, but the food is traditional fare from all over the country. The last time I went I had an excellent pasta all'arrabbiata and my friend pasta with swordfish sauce, yet spent about four thousand altogether with drinks, coffees and desserts. Recommended especially for people on tight budgets.
Francesco's Note : I called Piccolo Grande and was told that the restaurant is about 15 minutes away from either Roppongi or Hiroo. In the middle of nowhere, but if you live or work in the neighborhood it should be an excellent choice.
web -
www.piccolo-grande.co.jp
EX - German
Reviewed by Michel Bouchet
Address - Tokyo-to, Minato-ku, Roppongi 7-7-6
Opening hours - Open from 5pm to 2am. Closed on Sundays
Telephone - 03-3408-5487 & 03-3405-9942
Menu - In Japanese and English
Credit Cards - OK
Five minutes walk from Roppongi crossing going in the direction opposite to Tokyo Tower.
You can eat dinner there for about three to four thousand yen, depending on how much you drink. Not only the beer, but also the food is excellent.
The dishes are big enough so that you can share one between two (or even three) people, unless you have a very big appetite.
Ex is no more than 20 meters from Bourbon Street, further ahead on the same street. See Bourbon Street's map.
Frank's note : By the way, I am told that "Ex" in German student slang is an equivalent of "Kanpai!".
Bernd's Bar - German
Reviewed by Hans Sautter
Address - Tokyo-to, Minato-ku, Roppongi 5-18-1, 2F
Opening hours - Open 5pm to midnight. Closed on Sundays
Telephone - 03-5563-9232
Menu - In German and Japanese
Credit Cards - OK
The only German restaurant here in Tokyo I take into consideration is Bernd's. The others are all to different degrees fakes, yet they advertise themselves as typical. Bernd's is the real thing, a completely unpretentious bar and restaurant where Bernd busies himself talking to his friends about soccer and assorted gossip, creating atmosphere, while his wife does the real work. 70% of the customers are Germans working for Daimler, Hoechst and other German firms, Japanese working for the same companies or Japanese who know Germany well.
The cooking is what Germans eat at home, simple and unsophisticated but excellent stuff. And Bernd is a good guy. The beer: the beer is of course great, and there is Weizenbier vom Fass at about 1000 per pitcher.
Francesco's Note : I have also been to Bernd's bar, and liked it a lot. They have seven different kinds of high quality German draft beers, pure luxury to the beer lover, and food is simple but excellent. The other day we had Sauerbraten (roasted beef, 1800), Jaegerschnitzel (a Schnitzel in mushroom sauce, 1800 yen), Rettichsalat (radish salad, 1000 yen) and a Wiener Schnitzel (1800 yen) with plenty of beer and tasty brown bread. By the way, Bernd looks interesting, to put it mildly. In a picture on the wall he wears short pants with a white shirt and a bowtie. Gentleman from the waist up, riffraff from the waist down. Just one thing: Bernd's isn't cheap. At all. So bring with you a well fattened wallet.
To get there: walk from Roppongi crossing towards the Tokyo tower on the right side of the street. After maybe a five minutes walk, you will see Bernd's Bar sign.
February 10, 2000
Lilla Dalarna - Swedish
Address - Tokyo-to, Minato-ku, Roppongi 5-9-19
Opening hours - Open every day from 12:00 to 3:00 pm and 6:00 pm to 9:30 pm
Telephone - 03-3478-4690
Menu - In Japanese and English
Credit Cards - OK
From a Swedish restaurant I did not expect colorful dishes and strong flavors, but I didn't expect the anonymous stuff I found either. Without being actually bad, Lilla Dalarna will impress you with how unimpressive it is. Right after getting out of the door, I had already forgotten what I had eaten.
The decor is nice, though, but prices sort of high for what you get. Stockholm is no alternative, because I always found it pricey but stale, figuratively and literally. To eat Scandinavian, I'd rather spend my money at Café Daisy, a good Danish restaurant in Roppongi.
Cafè Daisy - Danish ****
Address - 7-3-22 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106
Opening hours - Open all day, every day
Telephone - 03-5411-0253
Menu - In English
Credit Cards - OK
I found Café Daisy in a guide book and decided to go in spite of the name, which in my humble estimation could use a little bit more pep. I took along my good old friend Stein as an escort, because he is Norwegian, speaks Danish and could therefore be a good guide to an esoteric menu of smoked herring and other such things. I was prepared for the worst, but as it turned out food at Café Daisy isn't bad at all.
Café Daisy has tables also in the small, very pleasant garden, and the inside is simple and tasteful, although not particularly original (the sort of interior a guy who chooses a name like Café Daisy would choose).
The food is mostly cold meats or fish accompanied by vegetables and the like. The variety and the quality are good. I would suggest that you try the Danish Special (assorted cold meats) and Frikadellen (meat balls and other meats). A pleasant surprise was also the bread. Obviously made in situ, it's typical northern European stuff, for example black bread with nuts and white bread with carrots. Some of us would also appreciate the beers, Tuborg and Carlsberg on tap, of course, but also other Scandinavian varieties like Giraf and Elephant. Alas, Café Daisy is not cheap. I would say you won't get away without paying less than five thousand yen.
Pros : Pleasant, relaxing, with a garden. Good food and interesting bread.
Cons : A little expensive
sanji's note : I like this restaurant, the food is nice, the service excellent and they have interesting aquavit (scandinavian alcohols); but the best is the possibility to eat outside, a rare feature in Tokyo...
web -
www.cafedaisy.com
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